Friday, July 20, 2012
Eyeliner History
Lipstick History
Lipstick history can be dated all the way to prehistory with numerous cultures using it. The ancient Egyptians and Babylonians are some of the many ancient civilizations that have used lipstick to color their lips, often red or purple. Queen Elizabeth I made famous the pale facial complex with contrasting red lips back in her time. Flushed, colored lips signify attraction and a 1770 law had been passed in England that forbade women from wearing lipstick. She was not only accused of being a harlot, but witchery through seducing men with makeup. Such a law was eventually lifted, but the Victorian era witnessed the frowning upon any woman who colored her lips in a lavish color or wore heavy makeup.
Lipstick in history has been popular until the early and middle nineteenth century when lipstick was viewed as for harlots. It wasn’t until the late nineteenth century when women started wearing lipstick in public thanks to famous actresses and dancers. Towards the early twentieth century, lipstick became mass produced, but was not yet contained in tubing like it is today. In lipstick history, lipstick itself was placed in wrapping that was to be applied at home by a paint brush. Women have contributed greatly to lipstick history since knowledge of making lipstick required skills in chemistry. Many women used their knowledge in chemistry to create the best brands of lipstick after the forties and onward. Lipstick history had been controversial over time, but since World War Two, women had come to wear makeup as a necessary accessory to complete their look.
Bowlers
Bowlers were also popular in the history of the American west and men of all classes sported the hat, doctors, lawyers, cowboys and outlaws, not only because it was fashionable, but because it was more snug and did not blow off easily in harsh winds as wider brimmed hats did. Bowlers have also been popular among the Quechua and Aymara women of the Peruvian region and parts of South America since the 1920s, introduced by British railway workers. Women can be seen wearing bowlers in that region today. Bowlers retain popularity to this day with people wearing it to make a fashion statement. The bowler hat is one the few hats in history that had come to transcend poor and upper classes and even gender and ethnic lines.
Gypsy Fashion
Because of widespread discrimination, gypsies have traditionally kept to themselves and were always on the move. Gypsy clothing is not the same in every gypsy circle, but things that bind gypsy clothing are color, beads, headbands and headwraps and the layering and folds of skirts. Within gypsy circles, they developed their own customs and fashions, but gypsy fashion has come to influence modern fashion around the world.
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History of Glases
17th century lenses saw the use of ribbons and strings to be attached to the ears. Permanent attachments to the ears developed in the 18th century were Benjamin Franklin inventing bifocal lens for both near and far vision. It was not until the 19th century when the history of glasses transformed into a fashion accessory with colored or circular shades becoming very popular among men.
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Kidskin Gloves
As lengths of sleeves became longer so did kidskin gloves. After 1825 and through the Early and mid Victorian period, long gloves fell out of fashion in favor of long-sleeved dresses. Kidskin gloves became shortened and at wrist length. Gloves were to be worn at all times, even when bathing. The textures of the gloves were to be skintight so as to feel natural to the wearer. It was almost a second skin to the Victorians. By the late part of the 19th century opera gloves came back in style, once again being worn at fancy dinners and balls.
Breeches
Breeches became popular around the late 16th century when monarchs from both France and England included breeches as fashionable dress for men at court. Like many garments and shoes throughout history, monarchs are the ones who were the trendsetters of their particular countries or empires. Breeches were usually made of silk, leather, wool cotton etc. When monarchs started wearing breeches so did the nobles and hence the rest of the populace. Breeches were a type of pants that was beholden to no particular class.
Wealthy nobles wore breeches at court and around town while the average man wore breeches to work and also for everyday wear. Breeches served a practical use throughout the centuries because it gave men a chance to show off their knee high socks and buckled belt heels. There was no point in sporting such socks and heels if no one was going to see them with a long pair of pants so breeches came in handy to show off shoes and heels. Breeches also gave men a chance to show off their calves which were considered very attractive to flustered ladies. Breeches also gave a chance for men to wear knee-high boots for fashion and for practical reasons such as day laboring and working out in the ship yards. Breeches started to all out of fashion around the mid-nineteenth century when heels and knee high stocks fell from popularity. Trousers eventually came to replace breeches in the early 1800s. As trousers and pants became more popular, so came shorter boots for men and by that point heels and knee high socks were lost by the mid-Victorian era.
History of Stockings
Original stockings were made of cotton and silk during the Victorian period and into the 1920s. Stockings underwent a setback during World War One period as such raw materials were needed for the war effort. By the 1920s, silk stockings grew popular in the advent of more liberal fashion trends. You can see plenty of risqué photos of sultry, young women and flapper dancers always showing their silk legs whenever they had the chance. Nylon hosiery did not arrive on the scene until the 1940s and were so popular the Japanese silk market collapsed and merchants could not keep up with the demand.
This craze was halted in the advent of World War Two when raw materials such as nylon were needed for the war. To compensate, women drew lines down the back of the legs to simulate the effect of hosiery. The post-war period saw the return of stockings throughout the decades. Pantyhose were invented in the 1960s, a variation on the British termed tights since men regularly wore tight all throughout the medieval and renaissance period. Today, stockings are preferred compared to pantyhose.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Edwardian Wedding Dresses
Notice the puffy sleeves and layered dressing typical of the late Victorian and early Edwardian era. The long train was typical of the Victorian era and became shorter through the decades. Even Edwardian wedding dresses retained some classic Victorian elements.
http://www.wholesalecheapdresses.comEdwardian wedding dresses also had the chance of being simple and imitating everyday dresses of women during that time period. Many women today prefer a throwback Edwardian wedding dresses that imitates the everyday dresses of the later period. As the twenties approached, women's dresses became more narrow because of longer corsets and by this time the long trains and signature S frame of a woman's body was beginning to fade.
Edwardian wedding dresses are versatile since wedding dresses of that time period very much depended on the woman wearing them. A noblewoman could choose to have an elaborate wedding dress with lots of frills, layers, puffs and flounces or a middle class woman could opt to use a dress from her closet and turn it into a fine wedding dress. This is why so many designers and brides favor Edwardian style wedding dresses.
1920s Hats For Women
Bandeau: a decorative headwrap for women that could be fashioned in all different styles.
Cloche Hat: Popular during the 1920s but was actually worn from 1908 until the 1930s. The cloche has seen a resurgence in recent decades.
Turbans: Turbans had been worn in Europe for centuries by the upper class in the privacy of their own homes. In the 1920s, the sporting of turbans in public became popular. Turbans would also be decorated with such as feathers as peacock or ostrich.
Wide-Brimmed Hats: still in vogue during the 1920s for women with longer hair.
Headbands: Women with long hair wore decorative heads to keep their hair in place.
Fifties Hair
A perfect description of fifties hair for women was soft, delicate curly and short. Hair was pinned back and held in place by a chiffon scarf. Fifties hair followed in the tradition of holding hair in place through pin curling and rolling. Just like the forties, women kept their in place by leaving in curlers over night and reserved for extra styling in the morning. The fifties was also the first decade in which women needed to visit the hair salon’s regularly to keep up their hair. Updos were quite popular in the form of beehive hairstyles and other updos that would set the stage for bouffant in the coming sixties.
70s Punk Fashion
Swastikas were also worn to be provocative and offensive and anarchist symbols were regular on those who exhibited 70s punk fashion. It was glam mixed with a grungier look. Singers such as Patti Smith wore regular or cheap clothing instead of traditional, flamboyant clothing of many rock stars. Cheap items such as safety pins were used as fashion accessories pinned on leather jackets or tattered pants. Big mohawks and colored hair was the norm for typical 70s punk fashion. Mohawks were common, tattered shirts and skin tight pants were the norm. The DIY or DO It Yourself philosophy was part of the punk movement which included using old clothing and making it your own style. Piercings came in the form of nose to ear chain piercings were common back in the day.
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Dark Shadows DVD Complete Collection
In honor of the new Dark Shadows movie and to the memory of the recently departed Jonathan Frid, the original actor who played Barnabas Collins, this would be a great time to recommend the original Dark Shadows from the 1960s and the Dark Shadows dvd complete collection. For those who do not know, Dark Shadows was a gothic soap opera that lasted from 1966 to 1971. Though short-lived, it provided some of the most memorable storylines and characters that television has ever produced. Not only did the show have something for everyone: romance, horror, mystery and high drama, but the series also had some of the most historically accurate and high-quality costumes from 18th and 19th centuries. For those who love theater, the show had more of a theatrical ambiance than a normal television show and that is most likely because many of the Dark Shadows actors had a theater background. There were some campy moments in the show and they recycled the same actors to play different characters, but that is what made the show endearing. Throughout the series, the main character, Barnabas Collins, traveled back through time including 1795, 1897, 1840s and even the 1600s for those interested in early modern fashion. Visual media can be a great tool in understanding something and seeing people wearing the fashion from previous eras can definitely help in grasping what people wore in the past and the distinctions in historical fashion.
Victorian Fabrics
Monday, July 16, 2012
Heavy Metal Fashion
Heavy metal fashion places a strong influence on masculine and warrior culture. Metal subgenres such as Viking metal, black metal and power metal all have strong themes of a warrior ethics. This is often manifested in long hair or beards and in the case of black metal wearing corpse paint which was typical of warriors in ancient days who regularly painted their faces before going to battle.
Heavy metal fashion emphasized male masculinity and rejected the hair metal scene. Viking metal draws on Europe’s pagan past and the culture of Viking warriors before the spread of Christianity. Though heavy metal fashion has rejected androgynous themes, there are certain bands within the Goth and doom metal subgenres who wear makeup in the traditional Goth style.
All of these themes can be seen in heavy metal culture today and all one has to do is go to a concert to see lots of piercings, makeup, spiked collars and bracelets.
Elizabethan Clothes
Elizabethan clothes were patterned on the fashions and tastes of Queen Elizabeth herself. Elizabeth I became the first Queen to define an age alone instead of a family dynasty. Instead of the Stuart or Tudor dynasty age, Queen Elizabeth came to define her own age and other monarchs would follow such as the Georgian period of the 1700s, the Victorian period of the Victorian period and the Edwardian era of the early twentieth century. Some Elizabethan clothes transcended gender. For instance, the ruff which was a frilly color that was attachable at the back of the neck. In the spirit of renaissance style, slits were used on sleeves and dresses to show contrasting colors.
Pale skin and lighter hair became the Elizabethan ideal. Women would dye their hair blonde using cumin seed, celandine and saffron mixed with oil. Queen Elizabeth wore many wigs along with using face makeup to make her skin pale as possible. Elizabethan fashion was home to some of the most bombastic dress in European fashion history; however, there were rules. Dress codes were called the Sumptuary Laws. Your social station determined what you could wear and even what color was acceptable. Ermine was for royalty while lower nobles wore furs such as fox or otter. Gold cloth could be worn by female relatives of the Queen along with countesses, marquises and duchesses. However, baronesses and viscountesses were barred from wearing those colors. Elizabethan clothes for women were some of the most rigid and confining of any age.
16th Century Fashion For Men
Lower class men wore a type of trousers called trews that were loose fitting. Upper class men wore puffy breeches, sometimes called Venetian breeches. 16th century fashion for men also saw the use of the trunkhouse which were puffy-like breeches with slits revealing contrasting colors. These types of breeches would be toned down in later centuries, but would come to the standard of a man’s wardrobe for the next few centuries. Men wore hose at this time, often made of wool, but sometimes silk for men who could afford it. Both short and long boots were available, but regular shoes made of leather were also an option. It was also popular in the 16th century fashion period for men to wear capes which was also a nice accessory that usually stopped around the back of the waist and sometimes sported over one shoulder.
16th Century Fashion For Women
Spanish and Italian royalty would make a great impact on 16th century fashion across Europe. The strong influence of French and English fashion would come in the next century. By the mid century, long trains were out of style. Farthingales were introduced by the mid century, a product of the Spanish royal court. They were made of cage wiring and whalebone and would come to make skirts wide and bombastic looking, similar to crinoline of the mid-Victorian era. The up side of renaissance fashion of the mid period was the separation of kirtles and dresses with the chemise discarded. Sleeves became tight fitting from the wrist to the elbow with puffy sleeves, sometimes showing slits to reveal more fabric beneath the dress. This is the first stage of the leg of mutton sleeves which would become fashionable throughout European ladies fashion. The late period saw hemlines propped up by farthingales, revealing elaborate heels and slippers. Hairstyles did not come into play until the late 1500s. Before that time, women’s hair was covered by gabled hoods. For married women especially, it was not appropriate for other men to see her hair.
Viking Clothes
Men generally wore a simple leather tunic with an attached knife and pouch. Hair was long and pleated with the side of the hair being braided sometimes. If the beard was long enough that would be braided as well. Men wore tights with boots made of sheepskin. When travelling around Europe they would carry in the arsenal axes, spears and swords for main weaponry. Protective gear included chainmail, leather tunics, shields and helmets. Such an arsenal of deadly weaponry and deadly fighting prowess made Viking warriors feared throughout the rest of Europe. To the rest of Europe, they were called Northmen and towns were often helpless when a Viking fleet hit the shores ready for battle and attainment of booty.
Sword History
Sword history stretches far back in Europe. In ancient Rome, nobles and warriors had swords and were trained extensively how to use them. During the Dark Ages, local kings would grant nobles and lesser nobles called vassals certain property in exchange for military service when necessary. The sons of these nobles were be trained as knights. Often the sons of noblemen would become knights who trained in the art of sword fighting from an early age. The blade had come to be associated with knighthood and nobility even after the Middle Ages in sword history. In England, for example, it was the nobles who would come to the king’s aid in times of crisis and would often serve as generals in the king’s army and it was considered a duty and a service to the king. With nobility came certain responsibilities such as defending the crown when necessary and those who did not were shunned by high society.
Musketeers in France served directly under the king and carried the rapier thrusting sword wherever they went for protection and sudden conflict. Traditionally, it was the nobleman who were the trained fighters while the ordinary men who were usually peasants and working people who were provided little weaponry and the training was often rushed in time for battle. In sword history, nobleman had the leisure time to perfect their sword fighting techniques and over time the sword often made a nobleman’s wardrobe. The nobleman carried the sword wherever he went in case of sudden conflict and the blade eventually became a part of a nobleman’s wardrobe ensemble.
Musketeer Outfit
The gloves provided protection during sword practice and real combat along with the boots, providing protection against lower melee strikes. The rapier was the lifeblood of any musketeer and the art form of fencing was devoted to the thrusting weapon. The rapier is a departure from typical medieval cutting swords since it is primarily a thrusting weapon. The rapier is typically a symbol of an elite warrior such as the musketeer. Underneath the musketeer outfit was a plain white shirt and pants. The musketeer outfit was not your typical cumbersome medieval armor, but a way for always being on the ready for battle at any time while remaining fashionable in the King’s presence or around court. The musketeer outfit is one of the few outfits in history that successfully blended soldier attire with everyday dress.
Swiss Guard Uniform
The Swiss Guard uniform draws inspiration from the renaissance period. Though it appears that the Swiss Guard uniform has been unchanged for centuries, the concept of the modern Swiss Guard uniform was invented in 1914 by Commandant Jules Repond. The commandant drew inspiration from Michelangelo and Raphael’s depiction of Swiss guardsmen in the same type of uniform. There are variations on the modern Swiss Guard uniform, but all of the different styles still retain a renaissance quality. The Swiss Guard uniform blends well within the Vatican City instead of having armed soldiers with rifles patrolling the holy city in Kevlar and combat boots. The Swiss Guardsmen have traditionally carried halberds in history which can still be seen today in Vatican City.
In an age of modern weaponry, the carrying of halberds has more to do with tradition though the Swiss guardsmen are trained in using them and still has the potential of keeping away unwanted visitors. The Swiss Guards have been used as mercenaries dating back to the 15th century. Everyone, from the Pope to Kings all over Europe had used Swiss mercenaries as bodyguards and soldiers. Spain, France, Italian city states and the Holy Roman Empire have all used the services of the Swiss Guards at some point in history. France dropped the use of Swiss mercenaries during the French revolution, but Napoleon made use of their services during his tenure as emperor. The Swiss Guard was known for loyalty and strategic battlefield experience which was why many kings made use of their services. Switzerland was a poor country which forced many young men to travel Europe and made their livings abroad as professional soldiers.
Italian Fashion History
Italian fashion history dates all the way back to ancient Rome. The Roman Empire spread their culture around the world, including fashion. Some of the centers of Italian fashion were Rome, Milan and Venice. When the Roman Empire fell, the clothing of people in Europe became more localized and patterned after local kings and queens. The renaissance period saw the rebirth of Italian fashion having a major impact on the European fashion scene. Italy at that period was mostly broken up into city states, but the southern region became a major focus of the renaissance because of Italy’s link to ancient Rome along with the strong influence of the Catholic Church. By the late 1500s, Italy’s influence began to wane when Henry VII set up his own Church of England and the great schism within the Papacy which placed equal authority in Avignon, France. England became a rising power on the world stage thanks to Queen Elizabeth I along with the rise of the House of Bourbon in France. By the 1600s, monarchs of both England and France were the trendsetters who dictated fashion and dress of both men and women at court while Italy fell behind. These court rules sifted through both English and French society and eventually the rest of Europe. Italy did not have any influence on the fashion scene until the late twentieth century with such fashion designers as Prada and Dolce and Gabbana making huge impacts on world fashion today.
Prussian Helmet
The Prussian helmet was called the pickelhaube in German. Allied soldiers dubbed it the lobster tail helmet because of the curvature in the back of the head. The Prussian helmet was made of a boiled leather structure and plated with a metal finish, gold and silver being for officers. These kinds of helmets were worn by Kaiser Wilhelm II and Otto Von Bismark. They were traditionally reserved for upper military branches, but also for firemen and police. Though it provided head protection, the Prussian helmet was more of a status symbol. Various finishes and decorations were displayed across the helmet, often denoting rank within the Prussian army. The design of the helmet was originally a Russian design which had horsehair plumed from the spike portion of the helmet. The spike is simply an adornment of the helmet. The spikes themselves became reduced over time. The distinctive Prussian helmet made the German imperial army recognizable by allied soldier since few other nations sported such a grandiose helmet. Other versions of the Prussian helmet included the Napoleonic raupenhelm which resembled the helmet, but instead of spikes there was a Mohawk trimming of feathers or felt material that lined vertically across the helmet. The kingdom of Bavaria would later adopt the raupenhelm. The Prussian helmet can be seen in South America and parts of Northern Europe today. By World War Two, the Prussian helmet was faded out in favor of simpler helmets that would give protection against mortar attacks.
Devillock Hair
Memento Mori Jewelry
1940s Pants For Women
1920s Suits For Men
Vampire Fashion
Frontman Peter Steele from Type O Negative sported genuine dental vampire fangs.
Goth metal band Theatres Des Vampires
Grunge Clothes
Grunge clothes became popular with the popularity of alternative music of the early nineties. Bands like Bush, Nirvana and Pearl Jam gave rise to the alternative scene and the city of Seattle was the mecca of alternative music. Rock music of the early nineties took a far departure from the hair metal scene of the eighties. Alternative music placed more emphasis on music rather than the androgynous fashions of the eighties. There was less emphasis on looking prim and proper to rock out, but these anti-fashions became fashions within themselves.
Grunge clothes was also a way for kids to make a rebellious statement against their parents and society by wearing clothing the rest of society considered garbage. Grunge clothes expresses the vintage style to the letter, digging out old tattered clothing and tailoring it to your own individual style. Young kids at that time did not feel the need to follow trends, but rather help set up a movement bigger than themselves that made a statement about their place in society and expressing their interests and style.
Eighties Hair
French Revolution Fashion
The French Revolution fashion saw a literal top down change in the way both men and women dressed. Nobles were being executed left and right at the beginning of the revolution. Everything with a hint of nobility and aristocracy was done away with, including the Christian calendar. The change in French Revolution fashion was a symbol of how people felt towards the nobility. This type of hostility had been building for years as Louis XIV's family lived in their own world of pomp and decadence at Versailles while many French citizens could not afford to feed their families. French fashions of the day became so grandiose and bombastic that it smacked in the face of ordinary French citizens who desired change in governance.
Fashions of the Last Russian Czar and Czarina
Empress Alexandria wearing what was known as kokoshnik, a headdress for women that has been worn for centuries in Russia by women of all classes. Empress Alexandria's kokoshnik was studded with diamonds and made of velvet trimmed with pearls. Veils hung to the floor for married women. By the twentieth century, this style was abondoned in favor of a simple tiara.
Czar Nicholas II was never seen without his signature beard. It's sort of ironic considering he would have had to pay a beard tax under Peter the Great if he had lived during the 1700s. By this time, Russian imperial autocracy had chose to resurrect the Russian tradition of sporting a beard for men. Also, facial hair was in vogue during the late Victorian and Edwardian periods. Nicholas II is shown wearing a blue sash with a left tasseled shoulder, a signature trait reserved for kings and generals.
Saturday, July 14, 2012
Nazi Chic
The Japanese heavy metal band, Dir En Grey, sometimes wear Nazi clothing for shock value and promotional photos.
Celebrity Jessie James's ex-girlfriend Michelle McGee.
Sid Vicious sporting a swastika t-shirt.
Prince Harry wearing a Nazi uniform to a party.